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April 03.2025
3 Minutes Read

How Matt Warshaw Became Surfing's Ultimate Historian and Advocate

'The Omniscient': how Matt Warshaw became surfing's ultimate historian

Matt Warshaw: The Genesis of a Surfing Legend

Born on May 8, 1960, in California, Matt Warshaw's journey into the surf culture began at the tender age of six. With his uncle as an influential figure, he took his first ride across a pool on a surfboard, igniting a lifelong passion for the ocean. A few years later, his family settled in Venice, placing him right at the heart of a burgeoning surf scene.

From bodysurfing to acquiring his first cut-down pintail board, Matt embodied the spirit of a grom who was ready to seize the swells of life. His passion intensified when he encountered legendary skater Jay Adams, showing him the dynamic interplay of surfing and skateboarding. As they made their way from Santa Monica Pier to Malibu, the pair not only racked up surfing accolades but also integrated their identities into the surf-skate culture that flourished in the 1970s.

The Rise and Fall of a Competitive Career

Warshaw's talent shone brightly in competition; he ranked sixth at the inaugural Katin Pro-Am at just 15 years old, a mere glimpse of the promising professional future that lay ahead. However, after several years on the professional circuit, his frustration with inconsistent performances led him to retire early. Yet, the surfing world was only getting a glimpse of what Matt would contribute to the sport beyond competition.

Upon leaving competitive surfing, Matt turned his focus to the literary side of the sport, co-founding South Bay Surfer magazine and later assisting in the editorial lines at Surfer Magazine. This shift marked the beginning of his enduring legacy as a chronicler of surfing history.

The Birth of the Encyclopedia of Surfing

In the mid-1990s, during a period of uncertainty about his future, Matt's father proposed a brilliant idea: write an encyclopedia. This advice came at a time when surfing literature was limited, and many myths surrounded the sport. Over the next four years, Warshaw painstakingly compiled data, interviewing surfers, referencing magazines, and crafting over 1,500 entries into a comprehensive narrative of the sport’s evolution.

This undertaking not only solidified his standing as the ultimate surfing historian but also helped dispel several misconceptions, such as the myth that wooden surfboards weighed an unbelievable 100 pounds during their era.

Mindset and Philosophy: More than Just Waves

Every surfer knows that riding a wave is about more than just skill; it’s about understanding the ocean, respecting the surf community, and embracing the lifestyle. Warshaw exemplifies this mindset through his writings. His works focus on conveying the vibrancy of surfing culture, illuminating the sport’s history, values, and the community bonds forged in the waves.

In doing so, he emphasizes that being a surfer isn't merely about catching waves; it’s about participating in a cultural movement that transcends the water. Warshaw's narratives inspire a deeper connection to the sport, encouraging both new and seasoned surfers to appreciate their place within its rich tapestry.

Why Matt Warshaw Matters to Today's Surfers

For today's surfers and windsurfers, understanding the history of their sport is crucial. As Matt recounts stories of the past, he offers invaluable insights into surfing’s shifting paradigms, social implications, and competitive spirit. His writings serve as a reminder that every ride, every trick, and every competition is a continuation of a rich legacy.

In acknowledging this legacy, surfers can cultivate a greater appreciation for their role in upholding the sport’s traditions while contributing to its future. Warshaw's dedication continues to motivate and educate, ensuring that the waves of the past echo into generations of surfers to come.

Take Action: Delve deeper into Matt Warshaw's influential works to not only enrich your surfing knowledge but to also connect with the broader surfing community that has shaped your passion. Explore his contributions, and you may find inspiration that charges your next adventure in the surf.

Surf Scene

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08.23.2025

Common Sunscreen Myths Surfers Must Uncover for Better Protection

Update Debunking the Myths Around Sunscreen for Surfers Surfers and windsurfers alike know that the sun can be both exhilarating and dangerous. Yet, despite the undeniable importance of protection against harmful UV rays, misinformation about sunscreen abounds. As part of our commitment to safety and well-being in the surf community, let’s unravel the truths behind common sunscreen myths that could impact your next ride. Myth 1: All Sunscreens Are the Same One of the biggest misconceptions is assuming all sunscreens offer equal protection. In reality, sunscreens vary widely in their ingredients, SPF levels, and whether they provide broad-spectrum coverage against both UVA and UVB rays. For surfers repeatedly exposed to the sun, it’s crucial to choose a high-SPF broad-spectrum sunscreen to ensure proper skin protection. Myth 2: You Don't Need Sunscreen on Cloudy Days Even on overcast days, up to 80% of UV rays can penetrate through clouds, making it essential to apply sunscreen regardless of the weather. For avid surfers hitting the waves, the sun's harmful rays can be just as potent when hidden behind a gray sky. Don’t take the chance—lather up before you paddle out! Myth 3: Spray Sunscreens Are Just as Effective as Creams While spray sunscreens can be convenient for quick application, research shows that they may not provide as complete coverage compared to lotion-based products. Surfers should opt for creams or lotions and ensure they apply an adequate amount, covering all exposed skin, to maximize protection while enjoying the surf. Understanding Ingredients: What’s in Your Sunscreen? Knowing what’s in your sunscreen can be as important as its SPF rating. Avoid products containing harmful chemicals like oxybenzone which can also contribute to coral bleaching—a critical concern for those who care about the oceans we love to surf. Instead, look for mineral-based sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which are effective and ocean-friendly. Staying Safe in the Surf: The Bigger Picture Understanding sunscreen isn’t just about preventing sunburn; it’s an important aspect of preserving our skin's health and the ecosystem of the waters we cherish. As we become more informed, we can make better choices—not only for ourselves but for our ocean environment as well. Let’s challenge the misconceptions, share accurate information, and foster a healthier surf culture. Take Charge of Your Skin Health! Next time you hit the waves, don’t forget the importance of choosing the right sunscreen. Dive deeper into the topic and check product labels—your skin deserves the best protection. Embrace the surf, equipped with knowledge, and let’s keep our community safe and aware!

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Embracing Safety: The HBPD Bike Helmet Giveaway in Huntington Beach

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